Improved mode of making boots



y dei "mecum fuman THAYER, or MoNSoN, MASSACHUSETTS.

\ LeamPaentNo. 103,104, dated May 17, 1S7o.

` `napnovmr:violar: or' MAKING Boofrs.

Theschedulevxefex'red to these Letters Patent and making part of the same.

To allwhmn ztm'ay concern l Be it known that I, HIRAM THAYER, formerly of Paxton,.in the county of Worcester and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, but now of Monson, in the county of Hampden and the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, haveinvented' a new Mode of making Boots; and Ido hereby declarethat lthe following is' a full, clear, and exact description yof the same, refer- -V ence being had to the accompanying drawingsfbrlning part of this specilcation, `in which- Figure 1 represents a side view of a boot, made in accordance with my improved method. Y p

- Figure 2 representsa sideview of the lastemployed in the manufacture of the boot, shown in fig.' l. Figure represents aside view of the treeing-fbot, used in the manufacture ofthe boot.-` l Figure 4 represents a side viewiof the crimpingform upon 'which the boot fronts arecrimped.

Figure 5 represents a side view. of the'boot front v after it has been crimped and cut over preparatory to siding; and

`Figure 6 represents a `side pared for siding.

To enable those lskilled inthe art to which my in- `view of the back, as pre-v vention belongs to makeanduse the same, I will proproceed to4 describe it more in detail.

"lhe nature of :myinvention consists in a new mode of makingboots, as'hereixmi'ter described.

In my improved mode of making boots, I construct the lcrimping' forms ofthe shape indicatedk in lig. 4 ot the drawings. This form` differs `from the ordinary form, iuasmuclras it isl provided with an "instep-projection,'A, and a. `toe-projection, B, while a depression,

G, is produced between said projections, which greatly -facilitates the'operation of after explained. x Y t '.lheholerl); at theheel of the form, for the recepcrimping,l as will be` hereof the cringl'iingfiron, isa-lso arraugedin relation to the curveE .of the ankle much, further back than in the ordinary forms.' 4

. greater portion of thestrain upon the leather-'is back` ward instead of downward, thereby producing the desired shape in the foot without'drawinglthe leather of the leg into wrinkles aboutV the curveE of the ankle,

which is generally the case when the ordinary crimping-form is used with a dowl'lward draft on the crimping-iron. Y

Imake the jaws of my crimping-brake to correspond in shape tothe forrn, said jaws` being provided with suitable curves to match the projections A B and depression G. t y

I alsomakc the last (see Iig. 2) with aprotnberance A', ou the instep, and also with considerable fullness y on the upper part of the toe at B,lwhile at G, cen trally between the toe -and instep the last is no higher than usual.

v 'The treeing-foot (see iig. `3)

is madewith projec` tions A2 B2, and depressions C2, to conform to the. construct-ionof thelformdig. 4) andvlast (iig. 2.)

The boot fronts, (fig. 5,) after being blocked out, are passed through the 4crimping-brame., and then placed upon the crimping-form, and the corner F is drawn back by the crimping-iron, the end of which is set into thehole D.

The depression C allows the the leather of the front at Cito settle downward and backward toward the corner F, while at A it is held'by the projection A,

v and at the toe B it is held by the projection va'nd the extremity Gi" is drawn directly backward and rounded over the endG of the crimping-form Sudic'ieut to give the required fullness at the toe.

'- By means .ofthe backward draft on the crimpingiron, the leather -is stretched in the. foot-part instead l Y i of being crimped into wrinkles at the curve E of the ankle, as in the ordinary method, ,and also the corner F is drawnba'ckto a l'nuchgreater extent, which latter is necessary to enable me to use my improved pattern for cutting over the fronts preparatory to stitching up the sides.

l The rear part of the fronts are cut with an inner curve, as shown at H', while the backs (tig. 6) are cut `with an inward curve, as shown at I, so that when the boots are stitched at the sides a fullness is produced along the lower edge J, which causes the upper to curl into the hollow of the shank of the last, thereby securing the proper form ot' the lower part of' the shank without undue stretching of the leather or straining the stitching, and at the same time greatly facilitating theoperation oi' lasting the hoot.

A hoot made in the mode above described possesses many advantages over aboot made in the ordinary way. The stock is not strained as much, and, therefore, the stitching is less liable to give way. 'lhe boot will also fit'slnoother around the a'nkle as there are no wrinkles pressed or crimped into the curve E3.

The protuberance A and B allow sutcient space within the boot, so that it will not cramp the toes or draw down upon the instep bone of the wearer, and thereby cause him much annoyance aud'paiu.

lhe leather being drawn down at C causes the boot to fit neatly into the depression at the top of the foot and also prevents the boot from forming into large t wrinkles when the foot is. bent in walking.

Having described my improved mode of making boots,

What I claim therein as new and of my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent as anew arti- Vcle of manufacture, is'- A boot, the part-s which are cut, formed, and colubined together n the manner shown vand described."

HIRAM THAYER.

Witnesses:

Guo. H. NEWTON, LEwls CoRLIss. 

